Seasons within Seasons within Seasons . . .

The New York Times Dining section featured an article about chefs and restaurants who take the seasonal menu idea to a whole new level: they cook “microseasonally," tailoring recipes according to whether the produce is coming into season, is in full harvest, or is tapering off.

The most obvious example to use is the tomato . . . you are anticipating them so much that, according to the article anyway, you are willing to use the unripe green tomatoes that first appear. (That’s not my experience; I’ve always had the patience to wait for the first tomatoes to turn red, and then late in the season, when frost threatens, I’ll pick the remaining green tomatoes and use them then.) Anyway, the article goes on to say that late season tomatoes, overripe and soft, are sweeter but have a less pleasing texture—they are the best for pureeing for sauces, dressings, and gazpacho. Personally, I have never met an Ohio Valley tomato that was not perfect for gazpacho, but that’s just me.

There’s also a comparison of early season zucchini, still crisp and tasty raw or cooked, and late season zukes that have grown to forearm dimensions. The article notes that the seeds are larger and “more distracting” in those late zucchinis, and I have to say I have considered that without really realizing it. I’m more likely to scoop the seeds out and stuff those big squash, or else seed them and grate them for baking.

Hot peppers get hotter later in the season, of course, but did you know that leeks get stringier and potatoes get sweeter? I did not, but the article makes the point that if you are aware of these small differences as the harvest proceeds, you can tweak your recipes to take advantage of the good qualities and make up for the deficiencies in the produce of the moment.

It’s an interesting concept, and the best part is, the article included several recipes to make its point. These included Tomato Crostata with Honey-Thyme Glaze, Green and Wax Bean Salad with SpicyTomato Vinaigrette, and Fried Green Tomatoes with Bacon Rémoulade. Ooh, la la! To find out more about cooking with microseasonal produce, take a look at the article in the Times Dining Section.