Condiment Confidential: Ketchup (or Catsup)

I learned how to make mayonnaise years ago, and last month I made mustard for the first time—it turned out great, but I learned that good wine makes better mustard, and I guess that’s not a surprise. But with eleven pounds of tomatoes in the share last Saturday, my attention turned to homemade ketchup.

I have a recipe from my Uncle Eddie from half a century ago (he was the world’s biggest ketchup fan, even putting it on his ice cream to amuse the kiddies, so no surprise he had a recipe for making it from my grandfather’s tomato crop). I also found a recipe in a recent edition of the New York Times. Uncle Eddie’s calls for a Foley food mill (a great old device, but I don’t have one), and a long simmer time. The Times recipe uses a food processor and a sieve, but I found its simmering time was far underestimated. Therefore, I created my own recipe, borrowing from both, and the result was quite delicious, if I do say so myself.

What’s left in the world of condiments for me to try? Why, with the continuing onslaught of cucumbers, pickle relish, of course. That’s next; look for a recipe right here . . . eventually. But for now, use some of the tomato bounty to make your own ketchup, then cut and fry your own French fries for a real summer artisanal treat.

KETCHUP

2 pints (4 cups) ripe tomatoes, cored and with bad bits cut out (but don’t peel ’em!)
1 cup red wine vinegar
½ cup dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons salt (I like sea salt for this)
1 teaspoon ground pepper
2 teaspoons Worchestershire sauce

Cut the tomatoes into quarters (halves are okay if they are small). In a wide skillet, bring the tomatoes, vinegar, brown sugar, salt, and pepper to a low boil, then turn down heat and simmer until a thick jamlike mixture forms and liquid evaporates (this was about an hour for me). Let the mixture cool for about a half hour, then purée until smooth in a food processor. Strain what you get out of the food processor through a fine-mesh sieve for a smooth ketchup, and then stir in the Worcestershire sauce. Chill before serving. Makes enough to fill a dollar store squeeze bottle.